High and Low at the Cafe Demel

Just days ahead of passover, my mind returns to pastry-filled Vienna, where I sampled the famous sachertorte at the Demel pastry shop. Read about the history of the dessert and its name in this turgid wikipedia entry. The Demel, on a busy slightly touristy shopping...

I'd like to buy a vowel

Struggling to read, speak and understand the local language is part of the fun of travelling, but being completely unable to pronounce the word for ice cream is just plain cruel. That’s not the name of the shop, that’s the name of the frosty dessert. And...