I didn’t notice the slogan on the menu until most of the way through the meal at Super Fusion Cuisine in Brookline. It proclaimed proudly if oddly, “First time ever in Boston. Super big sushi, huge size never seen.” I kinda like the sound of that, although I’m not sure how much size matters with sushi.
Super Fusion Cuisine is a theoretically pan-Asian or Asian fusion joint (seating for 12, indicate your choices on the laminated menu with a dry-erase marker) at 690 Washington street in Brookline, but for all practical purposes, it’s a sushi place, and a well-regarded one, too. They do a brisk business in carryout and we hit a 30 minute wait at 7:30 on a (holiday weekend) Monday.
We started off with Asparagus Oshitashi, a Jenga-style tower of chilled boiled asparagus with a peculiar sesame miso sauce and curly fried onions on top. I was thinking that it should have had seaweed in it, and perhaps a different sauce.
When the nigiri arrived, I remarked on their size, not yet having noted that it was a point of pride here. Hamachi was bright pink and ice cold, possibly still a bit frozen. Sort of a shock, but tasty still after defrosting dunk in the soy sauce. Saba – a definite favorite of mine – was room temperature and tasty. Each portion of fish dwarfed its rice ball and was nearly impossible to take in a single bite. The size, especially the thickness, of the fish slices was a little off-putting, lending a steaky texture, but a great deal at $5-6 for two slabs.
From the maki menu, we chose the Brookline maki – eel tempura with cucumber maki topped with torched white tuna, tobiko, unagi sauce and spicy mayo – and the Washington maki – sweet potato, tobiko, spicy snow crab with avocado on top. Both were excellent, but the Brookline was a standout with a great combination of soft eel, crunchy tempura and firm white tuna. I was skeptical about the dual sauces, but they won me over.